A softer merlot with turkey gumbo
Our Wine of the Week, SKN 2007 Napa Valley Merlot ($15), is a surprisingly pleasant merlot. I say surprisingly because for years California winemakers seemed to have been compelled to play “my wine’s bigger than your wine” with the varietal. I can’t count the number of merlots I’ve tasted that felt like a scouring pad to my palate and a baseball bat to my skull.
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With alcohol under 14 percent, tannins that are soft and silky and fruit that is integrated with other characteristics, perhaps this wine represents a sea change in how the varietal is handled. We can hope; merlot is a pretty wine that engages with a broad range of flavors when it is made well.

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